‘Turn right at the woodpile, then you’re there’. Yup, that is about as sophisticated as instructions get in this neck of the woods.
I was in Lefkas, Greece and was in search of the fabled Rachi restaurant, a modern hipster haunt hanging off a mountain in the middle of this rural Grecian isle.
When we finally found it, hidden up a slippy, cobbled path I was gobsmacked.
The view hit me first, a beautiful uninterrupted vista which stretched all the way to the horizon, where the sun had started to explode in the sky.
The next thing I noticed was how busy it was! You would never have guessed that such a lively crowd was hiding just off a dirt-track. The crowds had gathered to watch the sunset, clutching blankets around themselves to stave off the encroaching evening chill.
The only problem was that the crowd was hungry and swarmed over all the available tables, meaning that we had to wait a while to be seated. This is normal around the time of the sunset, as that view draws in diners from all over the island.
Although I would recommend going for the sunset, you will have to arrive pretty early to nab the best seats and blankets. It is a great place to visit for lunch as well, when daredevil para-gliders take flight just next to the restaurant!
But now, on to the food…
The prices are very reasonable, and most of the ingredients are sourced from their very own garden. Choose the salad to start, it is phenomenal, and they also have some of the best Tzatziki on the island.
The most expensive (and desirable) main is the sharing platter of chicken wings. This mammoth portion comes to €17/£13.50 and is easily enough for two people, after a couple of starters of course. Unfortunately I picked the stuffed hamburger steak which was a bit disappointing. As plates of chicken wings were whisked past our table, my eyes followed them greedily, full of regretful envy.
The crowds begin to slowly trickle away after the sun has dipped below the horizon. They leave behind a relaxed, sense of calm (the cheap carafes of wine probably help with that too…). The surroundings are perfectly chilled, and the al fresco restaurant is freshly decorated and accented by interesting pieces, such a massive lamps and cute cushions. It’s contemporary Greece at its best and most surprising.
A must visit for anyone travelling to Lefkas.